On the record.

“A loaf with the kind of crackle you remember from a vacation.”

“The petit fours at Levain are a small, careful argument for slow baking.”

“Maya Calvo's tres leches is the most quietly perfect dessert in the neighborhood.”

“A model of how a small bakery can keep its calendar — and its standards.”

“If sourdough has a neighborhood pulpit in Brooklyn, it's this counter.”